INTRODUCTION

This jewel like textile has been hand woven by the Ansari family- a family of national awardees in the holy city of Benares, now on their 7th generation of weavers- who have preserved the art of Gyasar weaving through thick and thin.

What do the Greek Orthodox Church, European Royal family seamstresses and Tibetan Buddhist clergy have in common? Khinkhwabs from Benares.

The word Khinkhwab literally translates into "golden dream". Brocades are a particular variety of benarasi silk fabric which are discernable by a raised or embossed appearance achieved by local insertion of patterning threads into the base warp and weft and by the generous use of metallic zari. A khinkhwab is the king of brocades- it is a fabric so densely packed with vibrant motifs of silk and zari that its background silk is almost invisible.

But a Morpankhi Khinkhwab is the jahanpanah of brocades.

It is so named because it uses the feathers of the peacock as the weft. The feathers are foraged in the monsoon. The complexity of the cloth is such that it is always made to order, and is made only in limited length with a maximum width of 24 inches. Taking upto 4 months to make 2 mtrs, these panels are magic materialised. Mr. Badruddin Ansari was presented with the National award for his exclusive proficiency in weaving this very cloth.

Varanasi has had an extremely vibrant tradition of weaving since the 2nd century BC due its position on the crossroads of trade routes along the Ganges, and due its importance as a religious and cultural centre. Brocades from Benares were amongst the most memorable pieces displayed in the Great Colonial Exhibition of 1886. Apart from being an integral part of structured royal costumes, these mysterious textiles have also been the objects of adoration of numerous heritage ateliers of Europe like Versace, Givenchy, etc.

If a khinkhwab is used for ceremonial purposes in a Tibetan ceremony, it is called a Gyasar. This particular piece is a Morpankhi Gyasar. It is a fabric whose beauty allows it to transition into the sacred. This would convert any wall that it is framed on, into a piece of art.